Delicious it tastes like baked fish but needs a little salt ...
Saturday, 4 May 2013
Salt Baked Fish
A local dish. They cover a fish in salt about 1cm thick and baked it for 40 mins. It comes to the table on fire.
Delicious it tastes like baked fish but needs a little salt ...
Delicious it tastes like baked fish but needs a little salt ...
Day 8 - Istanbul (Rest Day)
A full days sightseeing today.
Mel kindly "volunteered" to be trip leader and did a great job collecting the money and keeping us together. We were collected by a local guide at 8:30 and had a guided tour of the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (aka Blue Mosque) and Hagia Sofia.
Although built over 1000 years apart (Hagia Sofia completed in 537AD and the Mosque in 1615AD) the buildings share a striking resemblance with a square floor plan and domed roof. Clever roman engineering means the church feels less massive but the windows and bright tiling of the mosque make up for that.
Hagia Sofia was the largest church in the world until the capture of Constantinople by the Ottomans in 1493 when it was turned into a mosque. The Islamic touches, a mihrab (prayer niche) and some massive calligraphy are lightly done compared to the vandalism of the "cathedral from mosque" conversion in Cordoba.
A tour of the two main bazaars for some treats (dates stuffed with walnuts - yum) and then a kebap for lunch.
This afternoon it was the Topkapi Palace, home of the sultans. Some beautiful pleasure pavilions which were rather Mughal looking, not sure who copied who there.
The later Ottoman Empire seemed to be more influenced by Europe. The Sultan's military uniforms were reminiscent of Alexei Sayle in "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade".
Yesterday Deefor took the tram and metro to see the 5th Century fortifications which kept successive waves of Islamic invaders out of Constantinople for 1000 years. Sadly they didn't keep the crusaders out, so much of the wealth of the city can now be seen in Venice instead of here.
Overall a fantastic city with a sight (and a site) round every corner, friendly people, good food, and a real sense of being on the junction of two continents. Definitely one to return to.
Mel kindly "volunteered" to be trip leader and did a great job collecting the money and keeping us together. We were collected by a local guide at 8:30 and had a guided tour of the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (aka Blue Mosque) and Hagia Sofia.
Although built over 1000 years apart (Hagia Sofia completed in 537AD and the Mosque in 1615AD) the buildings share a striking resemblance with a square floor plan and domed roof. Clever roman engineering means the church feels less massive but the windows and bright tiling of the mosque make up for that.
Hagia Sofia was the largest church in the world until the capture of Constantinople by the Ottomans in 1493 when it was turned into a mosque. The Islamic touches, a mihrab (prayer niche) and some massive calligraphy are lightly done compared to the vandalism of the "cathedral from mosque" conversion in Cordoba.
A tour of the two main bazaars for some treats (dates stuffed with walnuts - yum) and then a kebap for lunch.
This afternoon it was the Topkapi Palace, home of the sultans. Some beautiful pleasure pavilions which were rather Mughal looking, not sure who copied who there.
The later Ottoman Empire seemed to be more influenced by Europe. The Sultan's military uniforms were reminiscent of Alexei Sayle in "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade".
Yesterday Deefor took the tram and metro to see the 5th Century fortifications which kept successive waves of Islamic invaders out of Constantinople for 1000 years. Sadly they didn't keep the crusaders out, so much of the wealth of the city can now be seen in Venice instead of here.
Overall a fantastic city with a sight (and a site) round every corner, friendly people, good food, and a real sense of being on the junction of two continents. Definitely one to return to.
Friday, 3 May 2013
Day 7 - To the very edge of Europe
Early start so that we make the Turkish border before the queues are too long. First we have to take the spare tyres out of the van and strap them to the bikes. Apparently the Turkish customs don't believe 40 new tyres in a van are for personal use. So we each import our own.
Then a dull motorway to Istanbul. Though Chris and Susie witnessed a lorry crash, a tyre blowout and got pulled over by the police. Not so dull then.
Istanbul is 13 million people driving 3 million cars through a city designed in 300AD. Surprisingly it works quite well. Turkish drivers have good manners and while you need to keep your wits about you and stay calm in the jams you will get there in one piece.
We have a fabulous hotel right in the heart of the old city. Deefor is writing this sitting in the roof bar looking out at the bridge that connects Europe to Asia. When we cross it we start the Silk Road proper.
We have a day off tomorrow to see Istanbul/Constantinople so a full report on the sights will follow later.
Then a dull motorway to Istanbul. Though Chris and Susie witnessed a lorry crash, a tyre blowout and got pulled over by the police. Not so dull then.
Istanbul is 13 million people driving 3 million cars through a city designed in 300AD. Surprisingly it works quite well. Turkish drivers have good manners and while you need to keep your wits about you and stay calm in the jams you will get there in one piece.
We have a fabulous hotel right in the heart of the old city. Deefor is writing this sitting in the roof bar looking out at the bridge that connects Europe to Asia. When we cross it we start the Silk Road proper.
We have a day off tomorrow to see Istanbul/Constantinople so a full report on the sights will follow later.
Where is Steve (L)?
Steve Loveridge has this gizmo that tracks where he is on t'Internet. In theory Deefor should be within a few kilometres of this track.
http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0YOGJUnO3PqSUgptiNithZOnzi6xdZLFx
Nice kit Steve!
http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0YOGJUnO3PqSUgptiNithZOnzi6xdZLFx
Nice kit Steve!
Thursday, 2 May 2013
Day 6 - Greece
360km across Northern Greece from Kastoria ("Most Beautiful Town in Greece) through Thessalonika into Macedonia to Alexandropolos. We are stopping here tonight so we only have a short hop to the border with Turkey tomorrow.
There were two routes on offer; twisty through the mountains or quick along the motorway.
That choice got us thinking about why we are on the trip. At one end there are "Riders": people who are here to ride their bikes and don't really care where to. At the other end, "Travellers" are here for the journey and the bike is a means to an end. We are all somewhere on that continuum. Named for its creators (and representatives of the two extremes), the Mordaunt/Bolingbroke Scale is a breakthrough in Adventure Biking taxonomy.
So, while Peter took the high road, Deefor took the low (fast) road with Ian. A diversion off the Motorway for petrol, coffee and a pipe saw us in a small town where we were bought coffee by the locals. Efharista poli!
There were two routes on offer; twisty through the mountains or quick along the motorway.
That choice got us thinking about why we are on the trip. At one end there are "Riders": people who are here to ride their bikes and don't really care where to. At the other end, "Travellers" are here for the journey and the bike is a means to an end. We are all somewhere on that continuum. Named for its creators (and representatives of the two extremes), the Mordaunt/Bolingbroke Scale is a breakthrough in Adventure Biking taxonomy.
So, while Peter took the high road, Deefor took the low (fast) road with Ian. A diversion off the Motorway for petrol, coffee and a pipe saw us in a small town where we were bought coffee by the locals. Efharista poli!
Wednesday, 1 May 2013
Day 5 - Albania
A quick blast across Montenegro saw the team arrive at the Albanian border.
Albania was a completely closed country until the fall of communism and the collapse of a complex pyramid scheme led to the ousting of the local dictator, Enva Hoxha.
It is still terribly poor with peasant farms and little in the shops. The only signs of economic activity are in the automotive sector. For such a poor country there a very large number of black Mercedes and Range Rovers with tinted windows.
To service them, every 1km there is a brand new petrol station though most have no customers or staff. Between the petrol stations every other shop is either a car wash or sells cheap wheel trims.
In contrast to the excellent car servicing infrastructure, the roads are patchy. By which I don't just mean inconsistent but literally full of holes. Driving standards are also variable. The horse carts generally keep to the edge of the Motorway with the sheep herds while everyone else does whatever they want.
Kevin tells us that this is good training for China.
The ride itself was hard. 13 hours on the road with long stretches at 30km/h up and down narrow hairpin roads.
Despite the challenge, Nigel, Peter and Brad decided to extend the day by doing an extra 50km off-road. They all claim that their GPS told them to go that way. I suspect that they have an extra routing setting. "Most Fun" alongside the standard "Shortest Distance" and "Fastest Time" options.
Albania was a completely closed country until the fall of communism and the collapse of a complex pyramid scheme led to the ousting of the local dictator, Enva Hoxha.
It is still terribly poor with peasant farms and little in the shops. The only signs of economic activity are in the automotive sector. For such a poor country there a very large number of black Mercedes and Range Rovers with tinted windows.
To service them, every 1km there is a brand new petrol station though most have no customers or staff. Between the petrol stations every other shop is either a car wash or sells cheap wheel trims.
In contrast to the excellent car servicing infrastructure, the roads are patchy. By which I don't just mean inconsistent but literally full of holes. Driving standards are also variable. The horse carts generally keep to the edge of the Motorway with the sheep herds while everyone else does whatever they want.
Kevin tells us that this is good training for China.
The ride itself was hard. 13 hours on the road with long stretches at 30km/h up and down narrow hairpin roads.
Despite the challenge, Nigel, Peter and Brad decided to extend the day by doing an extra 50km off-road. They all claim that their GPS told them to go that way. I suspect that they have an extra routing setting. "Most Fun" alongside the standard "Shortest Distance" and "Fastest Time" options.
Press Release - Montenegro
The Ministry of Roads of Montenegro announces the programme of works for 2013 to 2018.
The Republic of Montenegro is not yet an accession country to the EU so has not received any grants for infrastructure development.
This means that we will not be doing any road works for the next 5 years. The roads will remain as they are with distorted surfaces, occasional pot holes, unmarked junctions and ice-like polished surfaces on roundabouts to catch out unwary Globebusters.
We are sorry for any inconvenience this may cause.
The Republic of Montenegro is not yet an accession country to the EU so has not received any grants for infrastructure development.
This means that we will not be doing any road works for the next 5 years. The roads will remain as they are with distorted surfaces, occasional pot holes, unmarked junctions and ice-like polished surfaces on roundabouts to catch out unwary Globebusters.
We are sorry for any inconvenience this may cause.
Tuesday, 30 April 2013
Perfect Day
At the end of a long day, what better way to relax than sitting in a public square in one of the world's most magical cities, Dubrovnik, listening to a busker playing Tarrega's Recuerdos de la Alhambra. Fantastic.
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